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Current News -Monday, July 14, 2008
Chris, Bob, John and I did not make it to the Gunks on the weekend of June 28th. The very marginal weather forecast caused us to pull the plug on the trip. The combination of the high price of gas with the very long drive has swung the "go/no go" decision point more to the conservative side than in past years. Chris, John and I, accompanied by Tony, did assuage our disappointment by heading out to Farley on Friday, June 27th.
Everyone got a good workout despite the hot and humid weather. By the way if you are traveling out to Farley beware of the State Police speed traps from Leominster to well past Gardner. We ran into 4 or 5 of them. Conincidentially I saw a recent TV investigative report about local residents complaining about the speed traps. In addition, apparently there are construction signs posted at several spots along this stretch despite the fact there has been no construction in the area for several years. Despite this the State Cop tickets are doubled up since the offense occurred in a "construction zone".
Chris and Tony got a workout on the short 5.11a over by Airblast (5.8+) that Kevin and I got "worked" on last winter. Unlike Kevin and I, they both sent it. Can't figure it out! Kev and I had ideal conditions, temps in the 20's and icy and wet rock and we still couldn't get the crux! I think I learned how Airblast got its name while belaying John on it. I think it has something to do with the incredibly refreshing "blast" of cold air that flows downhill out of The Cave. It made for the most comfortable belay of the day.
Everyone had a go on Eyeopener (5.9), Madame Butterfly (5.9) and Lady Buggery (5.10a). What a great group of climbs.
Chris did a trad lead up a line just to the left of Madame Butterfly. He felt it went at 5.7 and termed it "worthwhile". From this climb a top rope was set on Cryptomatic (5.11a). The crux is a scoop topping by a bit of an overhang with a reachy horizontal for the finish. Tony got a nice send on it, seemingly floating through the crux. I pitched off several times lower down at a bit of a tricky sequence before figuring it out. Thus I gained the pleasure (?) of flailing and thrashing at the crux wondering how in heck Tony got over it. Got trashed and got lowered. John, who was also pretty worn out at this point gave it a go nevertheless. He acquitted himself well but succumbed to the pump and lowered. At this point the rains started which was just as well since we all seemed quite satisfied with the amount of climbing we had gotten in. So we packed it up and headed out.
I have posted up a bit of a trip report of Kevin and mine recent Mount Webster slab experience. It is made up for the most part of a photo slideshow. Give it a look here.
Ed and I got out to Farley on Tuesday, July 1st. Ended up doing a lot more of humping around exploring the upper tiers than climbing. Nevertheless it was a worthwhile experience. Making a movie of the trip report and I'm still working on it. Look for it in the next update.
Tony and Alice made the trip up to Katadhin on July 2nd through 5th. They ticked Armadillo (5.8) and Pamola IV. Well done! Here is their trip report.
Greg has continued to add to the account of his recent Yosemite trip on his climbing blog.
Ed and I were up in North Conway on July 7th, 8th and 9th. Climbed Cathedral, Band M Ledge and South Butress. Took a lot of photos so the trip report is supplemented with a slide show.
Observed Kurt Winkler guiding on Refuse and was impressed by his demeanor and the very positive experience his clients were having. All you alpinists out there ought to file Kurt's link, Mountain Guides Alliance, away somewhere for future reference. Kurt indicates the site is a bit dated but still active and is the best way to reach him.
Last heard from, Tony and Alice were headed for Cannon on Friday afternoon. Falling Aspirations (5.7+) was their target climb. Looking forward to their trip report.Upcoming Trips and Calls for Partners
Definitely would like to get to the Gunks this coming weekend to get some trad mileage under my feet. Let me know if you are interested. Could leave Thursday afternoon or Friday morning, back Monday. However I am flexible. Two days on Cannon would be second choice.Ticks and Wishes for 2008
In the for what it is worth category; I have posted up my "Ticks and Wishes List" for 2008. I believe its own value is that if filled up some cold, wintry evenings with thoughts of climbing.Best Of 2007 Climbing Season List and Prize Contest
Along the same lines of filling time with thoughts of climbing; I created a "Best of 2007 Climbing Season" list.I urge you to create your own "Best of the 2007 Climbing Season" list and submit it to Bill & Doug Climb! for the enjoyment of our readers. They don't have to be fancy and they don't have to be long. They just have to be submitted!!
In order to give you some incentive to do so we will award a prize to the "Best Best List". There will be one Grand Prize winner and the prize is two day passes to the Gunks. A $30 value.
The "Best of 2007 Climbing Season" contest has been won by Rachel and she has been presented with the prize. I will post her winning entry soon.
Help Bill Survive!
I have added a new article in the Help Bill & Doug Survive! Series. This one is entitled Knot The Ends! It reports on two recent incidents in the Northeast of climbers rapping off the end of the rope resulting in pretty severe injury to one and death to another. A third report talks about an "almost" accident recently in The Flume.| Recent Trip Reports |
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