Help Bill Survive!

This feature provides an opportunity for all of you to contribute to the effort to help Bill survive his trad climbing adventures.  From time to time I will post up questions or problems regarding trad climbing gear, techniques, skills, etc. arising from my trad climbing "adventures". If you wish, you can submit your own trad climbing conundrums to be featured in Help Bill Survive!

It is suggested, and perhaps required, that all of you will email me your responses, especially you "grizzled veterans" out there! In a subsequent report I will report back on the distilled wisdom, yes drinking scotch while replying is encouraged, from the responses I receive. We all need to share to help one another.

Remember - "Good judgment comes from experience, and experience come from bad judgment!" Share your experience with all of us so we may gain better judgment and thus become safer climbers.

Help Bill Survive! Redundancy Is What Keeps Us Alive! - How do you build redundancy into your anchor systems?

Help Bill Survive! Surviving The Rap - Friends don't let friends rap into thin air. What are your rap rules?

See the special edition of Help Bill Survive! - Help Doug's Kidneys Survive! dealing with protecting the second, rescuing the second and prusiking the rope.

Help Doug's Kidneys Survive! - Possible Solution page has been posted. Assisted hoist discussion and an important commentary from Tony Gardner.

Help Bill Survive! Falling Upside Down - Considers three issues from recent accidents at Crow Hill and the Gunks; rope behind the leg, helmets, and breaking biners.

Help Bill Survive! Clip the Anchor or Not? - Explores the issue of whether or not to clip the anchor as the first piece on a pitch. Uses as an example the first pitch anchor on Pink Laurel at the Gunks.

Help Bill Survive! Pro Issue on Whitney Gilman - Good general discussion on making the best of a sketchy gear situation.